By Michael Steinberger
A wealthy, energetic publication concerning the upheaval in French gastronomy, set opposed to the backdrop of France’s diminishing fortunes as a kingdom.
France is in a rut, and so is French food. Twenty-five years in the past it was once tough to have a foul meal in France; now, in a few towns and cities, it's a problem to discover a great one. For the 1st time within the annals of recent cooking, the main influential cooks and the main talked-about eating places on this planet aren't French. inside of France, huge segments of the wine are in main issue, loved artisanal cheeses are threatened with extinction, and bistros and brasseries are disappearing at an alarming expense. yet enterprise is brisk at a few institutions: Astonishingly, France has turn into the second-most-profitable industry on this planet for McDonald’s.
How did this occur? to determine, Michael Steinberger takes an enviable journey throughout the conventional pleasures of France. He talks to most sensible chefs—Alain Ducasse, Paul Gagnaire, Paul Bocuse—winemakers, farmers, bakers, and different artisans. He visits the Élysée Palace, interviews the top of McDonald’s Europe, marches down a Paris side road with José Bové, and breaks bread with the editorial director of the strong and secretive Michelin advisor. He spends hours with a few of France’s brightest younger cooks and winemakers, who're struggling with to reinvigorate the country’s wealthy culinary historical past. the result's a pointy and humorous publication that may provide Francophiles in every single place a wholly new perspective—political, fiscal, own, and cultural—on the obstacle within the kingdom and nutrition they love.
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Extra resources for Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France
Place two ounces of butter in a frying-pan on a hot stove, let it heat well without browning, then pour into it half a pint of freshly cooked stewed tomatoes, suppressing all the liquid. Cook for two minutes, then throw the beaten eggs over, and with a fork mix the whole gentBring up the ly for three minutes; let rest for one minute longer. two opposite sides, turn it carefully on a hot dish, and serve. \ 52. Tomato Omelet a la Pr ovenfale. Peel a medium-sized, sound onion, then chop it fine place it in a sautoire on the hot stove with one ounce of butter, and let get a ; color, adding half a pint of stewed tomatoes, or two good-sized, peeled raw tomatoes cut into small slices, a crushed clove of garlic, and season (should the tomatoes be fresh) with a pinch of salt and half a pinch of pepper, adding a teaspoonful of chopped good golden parsley; let the whole cook together for ten minutes; then proceed as for the tomato omelet (No.
Pour the celery sauce right in the centre, and serve very hot. a boil. 28 24. Eggs with Truffles. Peel three medium-sized, sound truffles. Cut them into thin in a a of with Madeira slices, place wine; reduce to saucepan glassful one-half on a moderate fire. Season with one pinch of salt and the third of a pinch of white pepper; add one gill of bechamel sauce (No. 108); let come to a boil. Prepare twelve heart-shaped croutons (No. 102); dip the thin parts first into the sauce half an inch in depth, then into fresh, finely chopped-up parsley up to the same depth.
Eggs with Fresh Mushrooms wash, and drain a quarter of a pound of fine, fresh mushPlace them in a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of very good Season with half a pinch of salt and a third of a pinch of white pepper, squeezing in first two drops of lemon juice. Cover the Add a quarsaucepan, and cook for ten minutes on a moderate fire. good Madeira wine; reduce to one-half, which will take two minutes; add now a gill of b6chamel sauce (No. 108), and let come to a boil again. Prepare twelve fresh-poached eggs, as in ter of a glassful of pour the sauce on a hot serving-dish, keeping the mushNeatly lay the eggs over the sauce around the dish, and dress the mushrooms right in the centre, and serve very No.